Have you seen scratched up cars? Cars that look faded, foggy or milky? It’s a “black car, but looks gray? It looks like the car came from swirl city. That paint looks like it was washed with a special mix of oil and sand and dried using an angry cat. Don’t do that. Do this.
All Products Discussed in This Post:
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- 5 Gallon Buckets
- Grit Guard
- Adam’s Car Shampoo
- Optimum No Rinse
- The Rag Company Cyclone Wash Pad
- Gauntlet Drying Towel
- Spectrum 420 Towel
- P&S Detail Products Bead Maker
Show Off Your Clean Car
There’s something magical about stepping into a clean car—it just feels better (it feels “right”). It might be the sparkle of the paint in the sunlight, the fresh-smelling interior, or the perfectly clear windows. A clean car makes your time behind the wheel a more enjoyable experience.
Walking up to your car in a parking lot, knowing it’s turning heads (and making people jealous), can put a smirk on your face. A clean car isn’t just about looks—it’s about the way it makes you feel.
What stops paint from being shiny?
Imagine your car’s paint is like a mirror. When it’s smooth, it reflects light perfectly, so it looks shiny and bright and you can easily see your beautiful (or not) face.
Now, think about what happens if you scratch that mirror. The scratches make the surface bumpy and uneven, so the light doesn’t bounce back the same way. Instead of a bright reflection, the light scatters in different directions, and the mirror looks dirty (no matter how you clean it) and it’s harder to see some of the detail in your face or hair.
Scratches also mess with the clear layer on top of your car’s paint (like a protective glass for the mirror), which makes the color underneath look less vibrant. That’s why we try to prevent scratches in your paint.
What Am I Doing Wrong?
Skipping the Pre-Wash Rinse
Before you put your hands on your car get as much of that loose, abrasive stuff off your car. This is a simple addition to your current process (or easy to start off with) that has a lot of impact to your wash.
In the beginning, just rinse the car as best you can with your hose or pressure washer.
Once you’re ready to level-up, think about using a pre-wash foam (I use Adam’s) or other pre-wash rinsing solution (I user ONR most of the time) to help break down and loosen up as much of that junk as possible. The added benefit here is that you’re less likely to scratch your paint compared to using just water and the surface is more clean before you get your hands on it.
Forgetting the Two-Bucket Method
Imagine everyone in your family is using the same bath water and you’re number 5 in line. How clean will you feel after that “bath”?
When you’re washing your car, make sure you’re using the two-bucket car wash method so the only thing going on your car is clean water and soap. No dirt, gunk or whatever that stuff was stuck in your younger brother’s hair (I think it was moving).
Using the Wrong Washing Tools
When touching the surface of your paint you should be using tools that don’t scratch the surface (shocking; I know). Bath towels or wash cloths, most sponges and (why do I have to mention this one) scrub pads aren’t appropriate for washing your car. They are scratching your paint. Not might; are.
Towels, wash mitts and wash pads made from microfiber and very few sponges are the only things you should be using to wash your car.
“But I don’t have any clean microfiber towels.”
Then you’re not washing your car.
Washing From Bottom to Top
Unless your car frequently has junk dumped on top of it that runs down to the ground, your car is dirtier on the bottom than on the top.
The bottom half of your car is incredibly more dirty than the top half. So, how should we wash the car?
Should we take our clean wash mitt with clean water and lots of soap and stick it on the bottom of the car then wipe towards the top?
I don’t know. Do you wash your feet and your butt before your wash your face?
No.
You don’t.
Obviously at some point we have to wash the bottom of the car. Just remember your washing motion never goes up. Left to right, right to left moving towards the ground. And when you can’t get any lower rinse your wash media in your rinse bucket, dunk it in the wash bucket (because you’re using the two-bucket wash method RIGHT?!) and start another section.
Abrasive Drying Techniques
Let’s say you absolutely nailed the pre-wash and wash because you’ve been a great listener so far. Man this post is long, I think I’ve learned enough. I don’t need to keep reading.
Ooops. Welcome to swirl city. Population you.
Drying your car is one of the easiest times to scratch your car because there’s no lubrication (soap) on the surface.
Similar to the washing tools, only high-quality microfiber touches this body. When you’re just starting out invest in one or two awesome microfiber drying towels (I love the Gauntlet and Spectrum 420). Take care of these towels. The only thing they touch is the washer, a drying rack, your storage shelf and your car. If these touch the floor they basically turn into sandpaper.
Have I instilled enough anxiety in you that you need even more? Good. Use a really good drying aid to help add lubrication to the drying step, but also add protection and added shininess.
Your Car Deserves Better (Ok, You Do Too)
Washing your car sounds basic, but taking a small amount of time to think about washing your car before doing it makes a big difference in keeping your paint looking fresh and shiny. You don’t have to do everything at once. But trying to add one new thing per wash and you may accidentally stumble upon having the cleanest car in the neighborhood.
From here, I would definitely recommend reading through the Car Washing for Beginners: Complete Step-by-Step Guide. Get a good idea of where you should start, or what you could improve on.
Washing your car isn’t just about keeping it clean—it’s about enjoying the process (you will have fun because I said so) and really enjoying the experience you have with your car. So grab your TWO buckets, mitt, and some car shampoo, and go bond with your car!